How To Install Tile Flooring (DIY Guide)

Everything You’ll Need

Tool / Material

Ceramic Tile

Porcelain Tile

Purpose

Tape Measure

✔

Measure room size and tile spacing

Chalk Line

✔

Mark center lines and layout guides

Straight Edge

✔

Guide straight cuts and layout lines

Pry Bar

✔

Remove baseboards or old flooring

Spacers

✔

Ensure even grout spacing

Notched Trowel

✔

Spread mortar on the floor

Mixing Paddle & Drill

✔

Mix mortar and grout well

Wet Saw or Tile Cutter

✔

Cut tiles for edges and corners

Utility Knife

✔

Trim underlayment or score board

Level

✔

Make sure tiles are flat

Grout Float

✔

Press grout into joints

Bucket & Sponge

✔

Clean tiles and remove grout haze

Knee Pads

✔

Protect knees on the floor

Safety Glasses

✔

Protect eyes during cutting

Gloves

✔

✔</

Step 1: Prepare the Space

Take Out Baseboards and Old Flooring

First, take off any baseboards and old flooring to see the subfloor. This makes a nice, even area for putting down your tile.

Use a pry bar to carefully remove baseboards without breaking the walls. If you are changing carpet, laminate, or vinyl, cut them into small pieces and clean up all glue. For old tile, use a hammer and chisel or a floor scraper to take away the tiles and mortar.

Clean the Subfloor Well

Sweep and vacuum the subfloor to get rid of dust, dirt, and junk. A clean area helps the mortar stick right and keeps your floor looking good.

Look for Damage or Wetness

Check the subfloor for cracks, holes, or uneven spots. Use a level to find dips or high spots.

Cracks or holes: Fill them with a patching compound.
Uneven areas: Use a floor leveling compound to make a flat base.
If working on concrete, use a moisture meter to check for moisture. High moisture can ruin tile or grout, so fix any wetness before continuing.

Put Down Underlayment or Cement Backer Board (if needed)

Depending on your subfloor type:

Wood subfloors: Put down cement backer board for a strong, water-resistant base.
Concrete subfloors: Usually don’t need underlayment, but a crack isolation membrane or waterproofing membrane might be good sometimes.

Attach backer board panels following manufacturer instructions, using the right screws and leaving gaps between panels.

Step 2: Plan Your Tile Layout

Find the Center of the Room and Mark Guidelines

Start by finding the middle of the room. Measure to find the center of each wall and use chalk lines across the floor. The crossing point is your starting spot for tiles. This makes sure the tiles are even and balanced.

Choose Your Tile Layout Pattern

For beginners, simple patterns work best:

Straight Lay (Grid Pattern): Tiles line up square with the walls for neat rows.
Diagonal (Diamond Pattern): Tiles are set at a 45-degree angle for a lively look — a bit harder but doable.

Note: Complex designs like herringbone or chevron need more skill and aren’t for beginners.

Dry-Fit Tiles to Check Alignment

Place a few rows of tiles without glue (called dry-fitting). This helps you:

Check if they align and are spaced well.
See how tiles fit at walls or doors.
Adjust to avoid tiny tile pieces at edges, which can break.

Spacing and Grout Lines

Use spacers between tiles during dry fitting for even grout lines. Common sizes are 1/8 inch or 3/16 inch, based on tile size and style.

Calculate Tile Quantity (Add 10–15% for Waste)

Find the room’s square footage (length × width). Then:

Multiply by 1.10 (for simple patterns) or 1.15 (for diagonal or tricky rooms) to cover cuts, mistakes, and future fixes.
Order this tile amount to complete the project.

Step 3: Choose Your Installation Method

For most tile floor projects, especially big spaces, thinset mortar is often used. It creates a strong link between tiles and the subfloor.

Common Methods:

Thinset Mortar (Recommended)
This is a cement adhesive fit for floor tiles. It copes well with weight, wetness, and temperature shifts. Many DIYers and pros prefer thinset for its strength and dependability.
Tile Adhesive (Mastic)
Best for small DIY areas or wall tiles in dry places. It’s simpler to use but not strong enough for most floor jobs or wet spots.

Note: For floor tiling, thinset is nearly always the top choice.

Installation Method	Best For	Strength & Durability	DIY Friendliness	Notes
Thinset Mortar	Floor tiles, wet spots (bathrooms, kitchens), big spaces	⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ (Excellent)	Moderate	Standard for tile floors. Handles wetness, weight, and movement.
Tile Adhesive (Mastic)	Small dry spots, wall tiles	⭐⭐ (Limited)	Easy	Not advised for floor tiles or high-wetness spots. Quicker to apply but less durable.

Step 4: Mix Mortar and Apply to Subfloor

Mix the Mortar
Begin by mixing the thinset mortar as the instructions say. Use a clean bucket and a drill with a mixing paddle to make it smooth and without lumps. Let it sit for a few minutes, then mix again before using.

Spread the Mortar
With a notched trowel, spread the mortar evenly on a small area of the subfloor. Keep the trowel at a 45-degree angle to make even ridges. This helps the tile stick well and keeps the installation level.

Work in Small Sections
Only cover as much area as you can tile in 10–15 minutes. This stops the mortar from drying before the tiles are placed.

Pro Tip:
For larger tiles, apply a thin layer of mortar on the back for better sticking, especially for tiles over 12 inches.

Step 5: Lay the First Tiles

Starting right will make the whole project better.

Start at the Center
Use chalk lines from your plan and begin at the room’s center or main point. This makes sure tiles spread evenly.

Place the First Tile
Put the first tile in the mortar. Press hard and twist it a bit to stick well.

Use Spacers
Put spacers between tiles for even spaces. This gives a neat finish.

Check for Level
After a few tiles, use a level to make sure it’s even. Fix if needed before it dries.

Tip:
Work in small areas so the mortar stays wet until tiles are placed!

Step 6: Cutting Tiles to Fit

Cutting correctly is important for a nice, professional finish.

Measure and Mark
Use a tape measure to find the size of the tile you need. Mark the line with a pencil or wax pencil.

Pick the Right Tool

For straight cuts, use a manual tile cutter.
For curved or tricky cuts, use a wet saw or an angle grinder with a diamond blade.

Cut in a Safe Place
Always cut outside or in a place with good air flow to keep dust away. Wear safety glasses and gloves to stay safe.

Pro Tip:
Measure twice before cutting to save material and get the right fit!

Step 7: Install Remaining Tiles and Let Mortar Cure

Start by setting the first tiles. Keep adding tiles row by row, starting from the first tile. Use spacers to keep the grout lines even and check that the tiles are level as you go.

Don’t step on the new tiles right away to avoid moving them. Work in small sections so the mortar stays wet enough for the tiles to stick.

Let the mortar dry for at least 24 hours (or follow what the manufacturer says) before you grout. This is important to make sure your tile floor is strong and lasts a long time.

Step 8: Apply Grout

When the mortar is ready, grout the spaces between the tiles:

Mix the Grout
Follow the instructions to mix grout until smooth, like peanut butter.
Spread Grout Using a Float
Hold a rubber float at 45° and spread grout over the tiles. Press to fill joints well.
Remove Excess Grout
After filling, hold the float steeply and scrape off extra grout from tiles.
Clean the Tiles with a Damp Sponge
Wait 10-15 minutes, then gently wipe tiles with a damp sponge. Rinse often. Avoid removing grout from joints.
Final Buffing
When grout hazes on the tile (after 30–60 minutes), buff with a dry cloth to clear haze.

Step 9: Clean and Seal the Floor

Remove Grout Haze
Wait 24 to 48 hours for the grout to dry. A white film might show up on the tiles. Wipe it off gently with a damp sponge or special cleaner. Try not to mess up the grout lines.

Apply Grout Sealer
If the grout maker suggests, use a grout sealer. It keeps out water, stains, and mold. Apply it with a small brush or a bottle with a roller tip. Let it dry completely as the instructions say.

Reinstall Baseboards and Transition Strips
When everything is clean and dry, put back the baseboards and any needed transition strips between floors or rooms. This makes your tile floor look neat and complete.

DIY vs. Professional Tile Installation

Doing tile flooring by yourself can save money, but it’s not always best for every project. Here’s how to decide if DIY or hiring a professional is better for you.

DIY Pros

Cheaper upfront
Work at your own speed
Good for small, simple rooms (bathrooms, laundry rooms)

DIY Cons

Needs time, care, and special tools
Mistakes can cost more to fix
Hard for tricky layouts or big spaces

Professional Installation Pros

Expert results that last
Faster finish, especially for big areas
Includes prep, cutting, and cleanup
Usually includes warranties

Professional Installation Cons

More expensive upfront
Less control over schedule

Cost Comparison

Here’s what you might pay:

Installation Type	Average Cost per Sq Ft	Typical Total for 250 Sq Ft
DIY Installation	$2 – $8 (materials + rental tools)	$500 – $2,000
Professional Installation	$8 – $25	$2,000 – $6,250

👉 For more details, see our Tile Flooring Cost Guide.

Pro Tips for a Successful Tile Flooring Installation

Want great results with your DIY tile project? Remember these tips:

Organize tools and tiles first. Keep everything close and ready.
Use a good wet saw for neat cuts, especially on porcelain tiles.
Mix small amounts of mortar and grout. This stops it from drying too fast.
Check level often with a spirit level as you work.
Work in small areas. This keeps mortar from drying before tiles are down.
Reduce breakage. Cut tiles slowly and wear safety glasses.

Mistakes to Avoid When Installing Tile

Even skilled DIYers might make these mistakes:

Not leveling the subfloor. Uneven floors can lead to cracked tiles.
Missing spacers. Uneven grout lines don’t look good.
Walking on tiles too soon. This can move tiles and mess up alignment.
Using incorrect mortar amounts. This affects how well tiles stick or sit.
Not cleaning grout haze quickly. Waiting too long makes it hard to clean.

Do You Need Professional Help With Your Tile Flooring Installation Project?

Learn how to install tile flooring step-by-step for a strong, beautiful surface. If you prefer, we can do the work like leveling, cutting, and grouting for you.

Our flooring installation team handles everything, from prepping the subfloor to laying and sealing each tile, ensuring a great result. We’ll help you choose the right tile for your space and budget.

Contact us today to schedule your free in-home consultation and see if we serve your area!

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