Everything You’ll Need
| Tool/Material | Laminate Flooring | Purpose |
|---|---|---|
| Utility Knife | ✔ | Cuts underlayment and trims laminate edges |
| Tape Measure | ✔ | Measures room and plank sizes |
| Straight Edge | ✔ | Makes straight cuts and aligns |
| Pry Bar | ✔ | Removes baseboards or old flooring |
| Spacers | ✔ | Keeps expansion gaps along walls |
| Tapping Block | ✔ | Gently taps planks together |
| Non-Marring Hammer | ✔ | Works with tapping block for tight fits |
| Laminate Cutter or Saw | ✔ | Cuts planks to size |
| Knee Pads | ✔ | Protects knees during installation |
| Level | ✔ | Ensures subfloor and first row are even |
| Chalk Line | ✔ | Marks straight lines |
| Underlayment Roll | ✔ (if needed) | Adds cushioning and soundproofing |
| Jigsaw or Oscillating Tool | ✔ | Cuts around pipes, door jambs |
Step 1: Choose a Layout Pattern
Before you put down laminate flooring, choose how to arrange the planks. Although laminate has fewer pattern choices than vinyl or tile, your layout can still greatly affect how the room looks and feels.
Here are the best patterns for laminate flooring:
Straight Lay Pattern (Most Common)
This is a top choice and easy for beginners.
Planks go parallel to the longest wall or where light comes in. It gives a neat, classic look suitable for most spaces.
Diagonal Pattern
Gives a stylish, upscale look.
Planks are placed at a 45-degree angle to the walls, making small rooms seem bigger or adding interest to square rooms. This might need more cuts and extra planks.
Random/Variable Stagger
Planks are laid in a mixed pattern, changing lengths in each row.
This style looks like natural hardwood and avoids repeated patterns or seams lining up.
Herringbone or Chevron (Advanced/Pro)
Some laminate floors can do herringbone or chevron designs.
These are beautiful but need careful cutting and planning. Not all laminate types have planks for these designs.
Step 2: Prepare the Space
Take Off Baseboards and Old Floors
Begin by taking away any baseboards and your old flooring to have a clean, empty surface.
Use a pry bar to gently remove the baseboards. Go slowly to keep the walls safe so you can use the trim again later.
If you are taking out carpet, cut it into small pieces with a utility knife and lift it off.
For tile, vinyl, or wood, follow the right way to take each one out.
Clean and Check the Subfloor
Sweep and vacuum well to get rid of dust and dirt.
Look for cracks, dips, or high spots. Use a leveling compound to fill low areas and sand down high spots. A smooth, even subfloor is important for a strong laminate floor.
Put Down Underlayment
Most laminate floors need an underlayment unless it’s already attached.
Underlayment gives cushioning, cuts down noise, and fixes small subfloor issues.
Roll it out over the subfloor, making sure edges touch without overlapping. Tape the seams tightly.
✅ Pro Tip: If you install over concrete, think about adding a moisture barrier under the underlayment.
Step 3: Choose an Installation Method
Laminate floors are made for easy DIY projects and often use one simple way to install: Click-Lock (Floating Floor). Laminate usually doesn’t need glue or sticky methods.
Click-Lock (Floating Installation)
The Click-Lock system, also called tongue-and-groove or interlocking, is the most popular and easy option for DIY laminate flooring. Plank edges click together securely without nails or glue.
This method lets the floor “float” over the subfloor, allowing it to expand and contract with changes in temperature and humidity.
Key Advantages:
No adhesives required — cleanup is easier with fewer materials.
DIY-friendly — perfect for beginners.
Versatile — works well on different subfloors like concrete and plywood.
Installation Tips:
Leave a 1/4-inch expansion gap around the room’s edges using spacers. This stops buckling when the floor expands and contracts.
Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for aligning and clicking planks.
Use a tapping block and pull bar to make tight seams without harming plank edges.
Step 4: Lay the First Row
Cut the Short Edge of the First Plank
Start by trimming the short edge of your first plank. This helps it sit nicely against the wall for a neater look. Use a utility knife for thin laminates or a circular saw or miter saw for thicker planks.
Place the First Plank 1/4 Inch from the Wall
Set the first plank by the starting wall, keeping a 1/4-inch gap from the wall. This is necessary because laminate flooring expands and contracts with changes in temperature and humidity.
Use Spacers to Keep the Gap
Put spacers between the wall and the floor to maintain this gap as you install the floor. Keep using spacers around the room’s edges.
Stagger Joints for Strength and Look
For the second row, make the first plank at least 6 inches shorter than the first plank in the row before. This staggers the joints, making the floor stronger and gives it a more natural look.
Tip: Don’t line up joints across rows — it can make the floor weaker and look less natural.
Step 5: Cutting Planks to Fit
Straight Cuts — Score and Snap
For straight cuts (like cutting the end of a plank):
Use a utility knife to score the cut line.
Snap the plank along the score for a clean break (best for thin laminates).
For thicker laminate, use a laminate cutter, circular saw, or miter saw for precise cuts.
Irregular Cuts — Around Corners and Obstacles
For cutting around door frames, corners, or odd shapes:
Use a jigsaw or oscillating multi-tool.
These tools allow for precise, curved, or angled cuts.
Cutting Around Pipes
Measure the diameter of the pipe and add 1 inch for expansion.
Drill a hole in the plank to fit the pipe.
Make a straight cut from the hole to the plank’s edge.
Seal around the pipe with a bead of silicone caulk to cover gaps and prevent moisture.
Tight Spaces — Under Door Jambs
Use a jamb saw to trim the door frame bottom.
This lets you slide the laminate plank underneath for a neat look.
Pro Tip: Wear safety goggles and go slowly with power tools to avoid splintering or damage.
| Cutting Task | Recommended Tool(s) | Technique |
|---|---|---|
| Straight cuts (length/width) | Utility knife (thin laminate) Laminate cutter or miter saw (standard) | Score and snap for thin laminate Use a saw for clean, straight cuts |
| Irregular cuts (corners, curves) | Jigsaw or oscillating multi-tool | Mark the shape, cut slowly following the line |
| Around pipes | Drill + Jigsaw or Hole saw | Drill a hole + cut a slit to the edge, leave ½” expansion gap |
| Tight spaces (door jambs) | Jamb saw (undercut saw) | Undercut the jamb to slide the plank underneath |
| Final fitting/trimming | Utility knife or laminate cutter | Trim small excess for a snug fit |
Step 6: Laying Subsequent Rows
Angle the Planks into Place
Start each row by sliding the tongue of the plank into the groove of the last row. Slowly lower the plank until it clicks or fits tightly.
Use a Tapping Block and Non-Marring Hammer
For a snug fit, use a tapping block and a non-marring hammer.
Put the tapping block on the edge of the plank.
Tap softly to close gaps between planks.
Never use a regular hammer directly on the laminate—it can chip or harm the edges.
Maintain the Staggered Pattern
Keep staggering the end joints by at least 6 inches in each row for stability and a natural look.
Check Expansion Gaps
Use spacers along the walls to keep the 1/4-inch expansion gap during installation.
Step 7: Finishing the Installation
Install Transition Strips
After placing all planks, put transition strips at doorways and where laminate meets other floors. These strips:
Make a smooth, safe switch.
Guard the edges of your laminate.
Follow maker’s instructions for type and fitting.
Transitioning to Other Flooring
Choose the correct transition:
T-molding for floors at the same height.
Reducer strips for joining lower surfaces like tile or vinyl.
Fix transition strips to the subfloor—not straight to the laminate—leaving a 1/4-inch expansion gap to stop buckling.
Reinstall Baseboards
Put baseboards back, fastening them to the wall, not the floor. This lets the laminate move freely underneath.
Allow the Floor to Settle
Before bringing furniture back or walking a lot on the floor:
Let it sit for at least 48 hours so the laminate can adjust to the room’s temperature and humidity.
Common Mistakes to Avoid When Installing Laminate Flooring
Installing in High-Moisture Areas
Laminate floors shouldn’t be used in very wet places like bathrooms or laundry rooms. Water might get into the seams and cause them to swell or warp.
Using a Hammer Directly on Planks
Don’t hit the laminate with a hammer. Use a tapping block or pull bar to gently fit planks without harming the edges.
Overlapping End Joints
Avoid lining up the end joints of planks in side-by-side rows. This makes the floor weaker and can create gaps or uneven spots. Stagger the joints by at least 6 inches.
Skipping the Expansion Gap
If you don’t leave a 1/4-inch expansion gap around the room, the floor might buckle because of temperature and humidity changes.
Walking on the Floor Too Soon
Let the laminate floor adjust and settle for 48 hours after it’s installed before walking on it or putting heavy furniture on it.
Tips for a Successful Laminate Flooring Installation
- Measure Right and Plan for Extra
Measure your room well and buy 10% more laminate flooring for cuts, mistakes, and repairs. Check Planks Before You Begin
Look at each plank for problems or damage before using it. Keep damaged ones aside to keep the finish nice.Wear Knee Pads for Comfort
Use knee pads to protect your knees during long installs. This helps you work better.Work Slowly and Carefully
Go slow with each step, like laying the first row and cutting planks. Rushing can cause bad fits and mistakes.Keep the Right Expansion Gap
Leave a 1/4-inch gap around the edges to stop buckling when the laminate moves.
DIY vs. Professional Laminate Flooring Installation
Many people pick laminate flooring because it’s easy for DIY projects. Deciding to do it yourself or hire someone depends on how comfortable you are, the tools you have, and how hard the project is.
DIY Installation
✅ Pros:
Save money on labor (usually $2 to $5 per sq ft).
Work at your own speed.
Good for small and simple rooms.
❌ Cons:
Need basic tools like spacers and saws.
Mistakes can cause warping or splitting.
Takes time, especially in big or oddly shaped areas.
Professional Installation
✅ Pros:
Quick and accurate installation.
Experts handle all tricky parts.
Often comes with a warranty.
❌ Cons:
Costs more — usually adds $2 to $5 per sq ft for labor.
Generally, laminate flooring installation (materials + labor) costs from $4 to $12 per square foot based on style and complexity. For more info, see our Laminate Flooring Cost Guide.
| Installation Method | Average Cost per Sq Ft | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|---|
| DIY Installation | $1.50 – $4 (materials only) | Save on labor Flexible schedule Good for small areas | Time-consuming Requires tools & skills Mistakes can be costly |
| Professional Installation | $4 – $12 (materials + labor) | Fast & precise Warranty often included Handles complex cuts & transitions | Higher upfront cost |
Do You Need Professional Help With Your Laminate Flooring Installation Project?
If you want to learn how to install laminate flooring, you’re on your way to having a great floor. But if you’d prefer not to do the hard work, our team can help.
We take care of everything — from getting the subfloor ready to aligning each plank perfectly — so you can relax and enjoy perfect, lasting results. We’ll also help you pick the best laminate style and underlayment for your needs.
Contact us today to set up your free home consultation and check if we cover your area.
