How To Install Hardwood Flooring (DIY Guide)

Everything You’ll Need

Tool / Material

Solid Hardwood (Nail-Down)

Engineered Hardwood (Glue-Down)

Engineered Hardwood (Floating/Click-Lock)

Purpose

Tape Measure

✔

Check size of layout and planks

Chalk Line

✔

Draw layout lines

Pry Bar

✔

Take out old flooring/baseboards

Moisture Meter

✔

Test subfloor for moisture

Level

✔

Make subfloor even

Spacers

Optional

✔

Keep gap at walls for expansion

Flooring Nailer / Stapler

✔

✘

Attach solid planks to subfloor

Flooring Adhesive

✘

✔

✘

Stick engineered wood to subfloor

Trowel (for adhesive)

✘

✔

✘

Spread adhesive evenly

Click-Lock Installation Kit

✘

✔

Has tapping block, pull bar, spacers

Miter Saw

✔

Cut planks across

Jigsaw / Oscillating Tool

✔

Cut around obstacles

Safety Glasses

✔

Protect eyes when cutting

Knee Pads</

Step 1: Prepare the Space

Take Off Baseboards and Old Floors

Start by taking out old floors and baseboards to see the subfloor. This gives a clean start and lets the hardwood expand properly at the edges.

Use a pry bar to carefully lift baseboards without damaging the wall, so you can put them back later. Remove any carpet, vinyl, laminate, or old hardwood, and make sure to scrape off all old glue or staples.

Clean and Make the Subfloor Even

Sweep and vacuum the subfloor to get rid of dust, nails, trash, or glue bits. Check for low or high spots using a straight edge or long level.

For high spots: sand them down.
For low spots: use a floor leveling mix to fill and smooth uneven areas.

A flat, even subfloor is important to stop squeaks and keep floors strong for a long time.

Check for Water or Damage

Water is a common reason for hardwood floor problems. Use a moisture meter to test both the subfloor and your hardwood planks.

For wood subfloors: moisture should be below 12%.
For concrete subfloors: follow maker’s limits — usually below 4% with a calcium chloride test.

If water levels are too high, stop installation and fix the problem before moving on.

Add Underlayment or Water Barrier (If Needed)

Depending on your floor and subfloor, you might need an underlayment or moisture barrier:

Over concrete: use a vapor barrier or underlayment with moisture protection built-in.
Over plywood or OSB: a rosin paper, felt underlayment, or foam pad might be suggested.

Follow the manufacturer’s rules to avoid warranty problems and make sure things work well. Lay the underlayment flat, don’t overlap, and tape seams if needed.

Step 2: Plan Your Hardwood Layout

Pick Your First Wall

In most rooms, it’s good to lay hardwood planks parallel to the longest or most seen wall. This makes the room feel bigger. For multiple rooms, think about plank alignment through doorways.

Snap a chalk line to make a straight guide along your starting wall. This will keep your first rows straight and guide the layout.

Let the Flooring Adjust

Before installing, let the hardwood sit in the room for at least 48 to 72 hours to adjust to temperature and humidity. Lay boxes flat, open the ends, and let air in.

This helps the wood get used to the room, reducing risks of changes after installation.

Try a Dry Layout

Place a few rows of boards without attaching them to see how they look. This helps you:

Check if the layout looks even
Avoid thin planks at the edges
Plan for things like vents or door frames

Use this time to mix boards from different boxes for even color and grain.

Stagger Joints and Avoid Patterns

For a natural look, stagger plank ends by at least 6 to 8 inches in each row. Avoid repeating lengths or making “stair-step” or “H” shapes.

Tip: Use different plank lengths and switch them in rows for a natural flow.

Estimate Material (Add Extra for Waste)

Measure your space (length × width) and add 10% for cutting waste, errors, and repairs.

If your space is odd-shaped or diagonal, add 12–15% for waste.

Step 3: Choose Your Installation Method

Before you start putting down boards, choose the best way to install your hardwood flooring based on its type and the subfloor. Each method needs different tools and techniques depending on what you have.

Nail-Down Installation (Common for Solid Hardwood)

This old method works well for solid hardwood on wooden subfloors like plywood. Use a flooring nailer or stapler to attach each board.

Best for: Solid hardwood on wood subfloors
Tools needed: Flooring nailer, mallet, air compressor
Pros: Very secure and long-lasting
DIY Difficulty: Moderate (needs precision and right tools)

Glue-Down Installation

Mainly for engineered hardwood on concrete, this method uses adhesive on the subfloor to stick the boards.

Best for: Engineered hardwood on concrete
Tools needed: Flooring adhesive, notched trowel, floor roller
Pros: Strong bond and low profile
DIY Difficulty: Moderate to high (messy and needs ventilation)

Floating Installation (Click-Lock)

Great for DIYers with click-lock engineered hardwood. The planks snap together and sit over an underlayment without nails or glue.

Best for: Click-lock engineered hardwood on any flat surface
Tools needed: Spacers, tapping block, underlayment
Pros: Fast, clean, beginner-friendly
DIY Difficulty: Easy

Pro Tip: If you’re putting solid hardwood on a wooden subfloor, nail-down is often best. For engineered hardwood, most DIYers like floating floors since it’s simpler and doesn’t need tools.

Step 4: Mark Guidelines and Snap Chalk Lines

Before starting, make a straight line to help with floor installation.

Snap a Chalk Line Along Your Starting Wall
Find the main wall, usually the longest one. Measure the width of a board with the gap, then make a chalk line parallel to this wall. This line is your guide for the first row.

Use the Line to Keep Rows Straight
When putting down boards, keep them aligned with the chalk line. This keeps the floor straight and prevents curving.

Leave a 1/2″ Expansion Gap Around the Perimeter
Wood changes with humidity. Use spacers to keep a 1/2-inch gap between the floor and walls or other obstacles. This lets the floor expand without problems.

Step 5: Lay the First Row of Planks

Trim Door Jambs if Needed
Before putting down the first plank, see if it needs to go under any door frames. Use a saw to cut the bottom of door jambs so planks fit right without spaces.

Start with Groove Side Facing the Wall
Put the first plank with the groove side facing the wall. This helps the next row fit together easily. Start on the longest, straight wall to keep the flooring straight in the room.

Secure the First Row
Depending on how you install:

Nail-down: Use a nailer to attach the boards to the subfloor through the tongue side.
Glue-down: Spread glue and push each plank down firmly.
Floating (click-lock): Angle the second plank into the first and click to lock it.

Make sure the planks are tight with no gaps between them.

Use Spacers to Maintain Expansion Gaps
Put 1/2″ spacers between the planks and the wall. This gap lets the wood expand and shrink naturally with changes in humidity and temperature, stopping buckling or warping over time.

Step 6: Install the Remaining Flooring

After securing and aligning the first row, lay the hardwood planks one row at a time.

Stagger the End Joints for Stability
For a natural look and strength, stagger end joints by at least 6 inches. Avoid lining them up, as this can weaken the floor.

Use a Tapping Block for a Tight Fit
Place a tapping block against each plank and tap gently with a mallet to close gaps. This keeps each board snug without damage.

Secure Boards Based on Your Method

Nail-down: Nail through the tongue at a 45° angle every 6–8 inches.
Glue-down: Spread glue evenly and press planks firmly.
Floating floor: Click boards together at the ends and sides.

Check for Level Frequently
Use a level every few rows to make sure the floor is flat. Adjust as needed to avoid future problems.

Step 7: Cut Boards to Fit Edges and Corners

When you get close to the walls, cut the last planks to fit perfectly.

Measure and Mark Carefully
Use a tape measure for the space left, minus 1/2″ for an expansion gap. Mark the plank with a pencil or chalk.

Use the Right Saw for the Job

Miter saw: Good for straight cuts.
Jigsaw: Best for cuts around vents or shapes.

Cut on a stable surface and wear safety glasses to keep your eyes safe.

Maintain Expansion Gaps
Keep a 1/2″ gap between the flooring and walls, pipes, or cabinets. This lets the hardwood expand and contract naturally.

Step 8: Reinstall Baseboards and Transition Strips

Reattach Baseboards and Shoe Molding
After the hardwood planks are in place, make the room look tidy by putting back the baseboards around the edges. If there was shoe molding before, put that back too for a neat look.

Install Transition Strips
Add transition strips at doorways and where hardwood meets other floors like tile or carpet. Use T-moldings, reducers, or thresholds based on the height and type of the other floor.

Leave Room for Movement
When attaching trim, don’t secure it to the hardwood floor directly. This allows the floor to expand and contract without bending. Fix the trim to the wall or subfloor instead.

Step 9: Clean and Inspect Your Floor

After the floor is installed, clean it well and check it to make sure everything is perfect before using it.

Sweep and Vacuum Thoroughly
Use a broom or a vacuum with a soft brush to remove all dust and dirt. This helps you see the floor clearly and avoid scratches.

Inspect for Issues
Look for gaps, uneven planks, or noises when walking. Use a tapping block to fix misaligned boards, or check your installation guide for adjustments.

Let the Floor Settle
If glue was used, wait 24–48 hours before putting furniture or rugs. This ensures the glue sets and prevents movement.

Pro Tips for a Successful Hardwood Installation

For good results with hardwood floors, you need to prepare well and be precise. These tips will help you work easier and avoid problems:

Always check moisture with a moisture meter before starting — this stops future issues like cupping.
Use knee pads to keep your joints safe during long work hours. Make sure there’s proper ventilation if using glue.
Check alignment every few rows to keep planks straight.
Work in small sections instead of rushing the whole room — this keeps the quality high.
Take your time with cuts. Clean cuts help make tight seams and good results.

Avoid These Mistakes When Installing Hardwood

Even DIY experts can have problems if they don’t avoid these common mistakes:

Skipping the acclimation time makes wood expand or shrink later.
Ignoring subfloor moisture and flatness causes instability or gaps.
Not staggering seams weakens the floor and looks uneven.
Nailing too close to the edge can split the plank.
Forgetting spacers leaves no room for expansion, causing buckling.

DIY vs. Professional Hardwood Installation

Putting in hardwood floors yourself can save money and be fulfilling, but it’s not for everyone. Here’s how to know if you should do it yourself or hire professionals.

DIY Pros:

Costs less overall
You control the timing
Feel proud of doing it yourself

DIY Cons:

Takes a lot of effort and time
Needs careful planning and special tools
Mistakes can be costly

Professional Installation Pros:

Quick and expert work with little hassle
Handles floor prep, leveling, and cleaning
Often comes with warranties

Professional Installation Cons:

Costs more for labor
Less control over schedule

📊 Side-by-Side Comparison Table

Feature	DIY Installation	Professional Installation
Average Cost per Sq Ft	$3 – $8 (materials + tools)	$7 – $18 (includes labor)
Best For	Budget-conscious, handy homeowners	Busy homeowners, large or complex jobs
Time Commitment	Several days or weekends	1–2 days (typical)
Risk of Mistakes	Moderate to high	Low
Tool Investment Required	✔	❌ (provided by installer)
Satisfaction	High (if done well)	High (with professional finish)

👉 For a full breakdown of costs, methods, and scenarios, visit our Hardwood Flooring Cost Guide

Do You Need Professional Help With Your Hardwood Flooring Installation Project?

Now that you know how to put in hardwood flooring, you’re ready to make a cozy and classic look that adds value to your home. But if you want to avoid the hard work — from cutting to floor prep — we can help.

Our skilled flooring installation team takes care of everything, whether it’s nail-down, glue-down, or floating hardwood. We’ll ensure your floor is even, strong, and made to last — without you having to lift a finger.

Contact us today to set up your free in-home consultation and check if we serve your area!

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